Climbing
Here’s my journey of eating chalk.
Austin
My amazing friend Chloe not only inspired me to build this site, but also introduced me to climbing.
I started bouldering in June 2026, at Austin Bouldering Project - Springdale. I find it really fascinating because it requires problem solving and involves a lot of techniques. Working on a difficult problem and finally sending it is always very exciting. Plus it builds my upper body strength in a more engaging way, I think, while hitting the gym feels repetitive and a little boring. If I’m going to the gym again, it’s probably because I want to work on my body strength so I can send harder routes.
From May 31, 2026 to Aug 22, I climbed 31 days:
Here are some routes I sent at ABP:
At ABP, green problems are v1–v3, purple problems are v2–v4, and orange problems are v3–v5. I’m pretty happy with my progress as a beginner. One area I need to work on is footwork. I found myself adjusting my feet too much. Feet are supposed to be placed in a precise and controlled way. Also, I haven’t been using my hips and my legs enough.
On my last day in Austin, I took a Bouldering I class at ABP because I wanted to see what it was like. Honestly, my biggest takeaway was probably learning how to warm up properly before a climbing session. I can’t remember the names of all the warm-ups, but here’s a checklist of the body parts to warm up:
- neck
- shoulders (shrugging)
- small and big arm circles
- elbow circles
- wrist circles
- fingers (tendon glides and finger flicks)
- wide stance toe touches
- hips
- knees
- ankles
- toes
I’m also glad my hands have developed enough calluses that I probably don’t need to tape my palms anymore to prevent flappers.
Houston
After my amazing summer, I went back to Houston. I tried Momentum Indoor Climbing Silver Street, but I didn’t like it as much as ABP. I wasn’t used to the mats at Momentum, some of the routes were not well-maintained, and the passes/memberships were pricey compared to ABP. Plus, I really missed the jugs at ABP, though that is a skill issue.
I had to take some time off because I hurt my left shoulder doing too many gastons on the same problem during my last two days at ABP. After a two-week break, I tried Crux Climbing Center Houston on opening day. Everything was brand new, so I liked it more than Momentum. I still felt more comfortable at ABP though. And the problem with a new climbing gym is that all the holds are still like sandpaper, and my fingertips really hurt.
I tried top-roping for the first time at Climb Capuchin with Rice Outdoor Programs and Education (ROPE). I also learned how to belay there. Belay communication is important. Some common commands:
- Climber: “On belay?” (Is the rope system set up? Are you ready to belay me?)
- Belayer: “Belay on.” (Yes, it’s safe to climb.)
- Climber: “Climbing.” (About to leave the ground.)
- Belayer: “Climb on.” (Go ahead, I’m ready for you to climb.)
- Climber: “Take.” (Can you pull in all slack and hold my weight? I need to rest.)
- Belayer: “Take on.” (Rope is tight, you can put your weight on the harness.)
- Climber: “Lower me.” (Can you lower me down?)
- Belayer: “Lowering.” (Yes, I’ll keep feeding the rope through the device.)
I realized that top-roping is much safer than bouldering, but not as fun. I like that bouldering problems are shorter and focus more on technique than stamina.
The bouldering problems at Climb Capuchin are very hard. A v1 there could easily be a v3 at other gyms.